Not so long ago, men’s wardrobes were defined by flashy logos and big brand names. Now, it’s a lot more understated — minimalistic ensembles with a twist. The general theme was clear on the international runways this season, from Milan and Paris to New York and London: comfort is the new elegance. 

The modern look is less about reinvention and more about refinement — characterised by ease, adaptability, durability and subtly making a statement. Today, men are carefully curating their wardrobe rather than following fads. They look for clothing that is functional but effortless. Colours are muted but sophisticated, textures are rich and silhouettes are relaxed. It’s about looking and feeling your best —confidence doesn’t need to shout. 

Everyday adaptations and how to wear it now 

Interpreting runway collections for a functional wardrobe doesn’t mean dressing in designer clothing from head to toe. It does mean picking up the seasonal ‘language’ and using your own accent when speaking it. Essentially, take the inspiration and make it your own, working with what you can afford and prefer aesthetically.

Start with loose tailoring. Unstructured blazers made of lightweight wool, jersey or linen are more wearable than a stiff suit. For a sophisticated yet laid-back style, pair them with dark indigo denims or pleated pants. Complement them by layering a silky turtleneck, supported by a simple white T-shirt underneath.

Embrace texture. Tactile contrast is the simplest way to give an ensemble a contemporary vibe. Try a bouclé cardigan with wide-leg pants, or a suede overshirt with a crisp cotton shirt. Contrasts between matte and gloss, as in brushed flannel and polished leather, add dimension and interest. 

Think in tonal hues. Beige, taupe or grey head-to-toe neutrals are wearable and directional. To keep things fresh, add one unusual hue — such as a blush knit or an olive overshirt. Steer clear of stark contrasts; gentle transitions are the new refinement. 

Although layering remains an important styling technique, this season’s emphasis is on flow rather than bulk. Swap out your heavy parka for a lightweight trench coat over a knit polo shirt, or a cropped bomber over soft tailoring. Shapes should move with you, not against you. 

Lastly, accessorise. Subdued styles come to life with the proper finishing touches.Even the most basic outfit can stand out with a sculptural crossbody bag, polished loafers or a narrow leather belt with an exquisite clasp. Think of accessories as punctuation: they should never be overdone and should always be intentional. 

Outside the Prada S/S26 show at Milan Fashion Week 

The new modern wardrobe 

Clothes are made to be worn, not just styled for the curated Instagram feed. They should transition effortlessly from weekday to weekend, from trendy to timeless, from the office to the evening. And menswear has evolved to favour aesthetics that showcase inner confidence — a simple cotton shirt says more now than it ever has. 

Instead of following the runway to a T, interpret it in your unique way. Try different styles, fits and colours until you find the look that’s just right. The days of imitation are over! Because what feels correct, rather than what is novel, is the true story of menswear this year (and the years to come). Feeling good is the most authentic way to express yourself. 

Words: Gasant Kellerman
Photography: Gallo/Getty images

Also read: 5 mistakes you make when grooming your beard

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A yellow ruched dress 

‘Tis the season for spring dresses galore – and we cannot be more excited. A ruched dress is the perfect way to brighten any day (hello, dopamine dressing). Pair this dress with chunky sandals for brunch with the girls or pair it with a kitten heel if you want to take this look from a day outing to an evening dinner. 

@tataroyals Where to shop for butter yellow dresses #greenscreenvideo #butteryellow, #fashion, #summerdress, #outfitinspo, #weddingguest ♬ Bossa Nova jazz that seems to fit in a cafe(1433079) – TAKANORI ONDA

Butter yellow bags 

A butter yellow bag is bold enough to turn heads, but soft enough to slide into your wardrobe without a fuss. Although this hue works in any form, a butter yellow bag is perfect for your perfect everyday sidekick – no matter the occasion. Pair it with jeans and a white T-shirt to add a subtle pop of colour to your casual look. 

@elinam_vee Quick ootd ❣️ Barrel jeans a white tank top with butter yellow bag. #romanticizinglife #ootdinspo #sytledbyvivi #ghanatiktok🇬🇭 #fyp #fashion #viralvideos #ootd #styletips #butteryellow #styleinspo2025😉 ♬ original sound – Lalli

Strappy heels 

Want to dip your toe into the butter yellow trend? A pair of yellow strappy heels are one of the easiest ways to melt into everyday style. Whether you wear it with a short black dress for a fancy dinner or keeping it casual when thrifting (in style) with wide–legged jeans and a slogan T-shirt – this yellow heel will elevate your look without trying too hard.  

@billinishoes Introducing the colour of the season. #billini #butteryellow #pumps #yellowshoes #fyp ♬ Roman d’Amour – Alastair Lane & Sarah Degny

Photography:

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Fashionable Footwear

Cool kicks

Turn up to class in the hottest sneakers. Style white kicks with relaxed zip-up pants and a basketball-look top and you’ll be sorted. Sporty more of your vibe? Pair your kicks with an overall and you’ll be good to go.

Heels that pop

From library to lectures – style your hot heels with long pants or two-toned prints. The colour of your shoes will pop against the relaxed colours of the prints.

Textured bottoms

Colourful prints

Looking to spice up your outfit? Long cargo pants with prints is your next move. Wear it with a fitted colourful top or pair your printed pants with a denim corset for a laid-back look.

Mini skirts

This 60’s fashion trend is back in a major way. Whether a denim miniskirt or a neutral pleated skirt, this fun bottom adds dimension to any ‘fit. Pair your skirts with vibrant tops for a pop of colour to spruce up your look.

Level up with accessories

Sunny shades

From neon green to hot pink – these rainbow accessories can brighten up any look. Pair your sunglasses with earrings of the same tone to make a statement, or wear a contrasting-coloured top. These sunnies will turn heads on and off campus.

Happenin’ headwear

These hats will put you right into the headwear hall of fame. From bucket to trucker, pair your cap with laid-back trousers or a cute short skirt.

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Trend analyst and cultural strategist for her own company Nicola Cooper & Associates as well as in-house trends analyst at 99c, Nicola Cooper is at the forefront of the South African fashion scene. The fashion industry is a tough nut to crack. It is fast-paced and essentially all subjective, so we sat down with Nicola to figure out how she does it.

When did you start your trend-forecasting journey?

Trend analysis and forecasting is a very new career and was born out of the information overload. It has become a complex science  of research and analysis in order to track notable changes that are happening at a  very fast pace.

Trend analysis did not really exist when  I was younger or even when I was studying. Growing up in a small town in the former Transkei with activist and liberal parents,
I didn’t really fit in with my white peers  and counterparts. I immersed myself in the activist, feminist, punk and skateboarding space. And during my varsity days, I became incredibly interested in researching the formation of identity in African cultures, subcultures and countercultures – specifically in how they manifest themselves through fashion, music, lifestyle and marks of identification in street style.

After working in the skateboarding industry for almost 10 years, I moved into a role as on-air producer for MTV Base. MTV Base’s creatives were located in Milan and, later,  in Poland, and this is when I began to understand the importance of something looking universal. I then went on to ‘learn’  by ‘teaching’ and taught Trend Analysis at tertiary level to 500 kids a week. Thereafter,  I was approached by my mentor Dion Chang of FLUX Trends, to head up his fashion, lifestyle and pop culture division.

Now I run my own trend research, analysis and strategy firm, as well as being an in-house trend analyst within an amazing, forward-thinking agency.

Who was your inspiration growing up?

My mom is an entrepreneur, so I was exposed to business from a young age and my dad always supported and encouraged equality and feminism. I also come from a strong working class, fashion family. My grandmother was a machinist and weaver in a factory, my grandfather was an electrician who repaired machines, my dad was a knitwear manufacturer at one stage and my mom was the Regional Manager for Foschini in the Transkei before opening her own business. I never thought
I would go into fashion, but I guess you could say it was in my blood.

What does your morning routine consist of?

A good cup of coffee, breakfast (on busy days I forget to eat – so this is vital) and going through the news and social media while hanging with my two fur kids Jimi
Bear and Bowie. I also have a daily reading that sets my mindset for the day and this usually manifests into #MyMorningMantra, which I share on social media. I am optimistic, passionate and positive by nature, which I am sure annoys the hell out of some folk. But hey, it got me this far!

How do you know which trends are the ones that will stick?

Trends are never about me, my likes or my taste. For me it is always about the consumer: who they are, what they deal with day to day, what their aspirations are, and then asking how we can give them access to trends at their price point.

Which styles and trends are you most looking forward to in 2020?

I am really looking forward to the introduction of new colours and textures. It always indicates the mood, tone or zeitgeist for the year. And I am always interested in street style, because for me that is where fashion lives in Africa.

The evolution of teen- and tween-targeted clothing, how we are going to take care of those who make our clothing, and how sustainability is going to impact us are imperative topics. Our youth market is one of the largest in the world. I am so excited to see them grow as consumers in South Africa. The youth of the world and our country give me hope.

Which factors are considered when forecasting trends?

It is really a combination of many things, from our gatekeepers, music, media, politics, technology, sociology, the economy, colour psychology, and one of the most important is how history impacts the future. In every way, we always need to understand the past to better conceive the future.

WHat does your firm do for its clients?

A lot of the time I get to present very frank knowledge in boardrooms and to have some very complex conversations. I want to make sure that our consumers are heard and are respected, and that their hard-earned money is valued. We need to view our consumers as real people, not just numbers.

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From Kim Jones’ Louis Vuitton x Supreme collab, to Virgil Abloh’s ‘The Ten’, luxury streetwear has become the new High Fashion, with resale markets such as StockX providing a platform for resellers to sell their rare sneakers at ridiculous prices. Due to the rise in popularity for exclusive and ‘hyped’ sneakers, brands find themselves producing more sneakers at limited quantities, and more frequent brand collaborations, with Nike and Adidas at the forefront because of their commercial appeal. Whether it’s re-workings of classic silhouettes or bold new trends, they all say the same thing on your feet: luxury. We take a look at eight sneakers that capture
the art of hype.

ADIDAS YEEZY BOOST 700 WAVE RUNNER 
After the trendy success of the Balenciaga Triple S ‘chunky sneaker’, Adidas and Kanye West hopped on the wave, and the Wave Runner was born. With a chunky midsole, suede and mesh upper, and reflective stripes the Yeezy Boost 700 combines trendy with a classic ‘dad shoe‘ aesthetic.

How to Style:
Pull off major normcore vibes with a cropped or cuffed pants (trousers or sweats), and an oversized T-shirt and/or hoody.

ACNE STUDIOS ADRIAN LEATHER LOW
This is a classic menswear trainer from Acne Studios. Designed from white grained leather and featuring a lace-up front and low-top silhouette, it’s a staple of Swedish minimalist fashion.

How to Style:
Keep it minimal but classy with a skinny-fit suit and plain T-shirt.

CONVERSE ALL STAR X JW ANDERSON 
Representing a daring interpretation of the contrasts between the iconic Converse All Star silhouette and JW Anderson’s provoking design aesthetic, the two brands have created a unique blend between style and culture.

How to Style:
Go with a straight-legged corduroy pants, printed resort shirt and a bucket hat for a skate-inspired outfit.

NIKE REACT ELEMENT 87 
Drawing comparisons to Virgil Abloh’s design style, the Nike React Element 87 sports a deconstructed, lightweight look with a foam technology sole and a translucent upper, all popular trends right now in fashion and sneakers.

How to Style:
Pair an athleisure tracksuit with a golf shirt and statement socks (to show off the colour through the sneaker’s translucent upper).

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The social and cultural phenomenon of street style has become a focal point of the fashion industry. That said, it’s not just for the public to appreciate: In recent years, designer brands have chosen to take inspiration from the streets, unlike in past generations, when a trend forecaster would’ve been involved. Streetwear labels such as A Bathing Ape, Off-White and Supreme are known to create clothing that feeds off the streets and creates a major buzz throughout the industry. But what about those high-fashion houses that use street style as a source of inspiration, but loses its credibility because of lack of media coverage?

There’s no real doubt that the mainstream media are in control of the information the public receives, and the coverage of designer runway shows and pieces is no exception. Journalists sitting front row at shows for the likes of Gucci, Chanel and Prada will report on what is directly shown on the runway as opposed to figuring out where the trend originated from.

Street style and street-style stars are synonymous with youth culture and with the youth being the biggest spenders in the fashion industry, it’s no surprise that designers are trying hard to tap into that market, making street style their go-to for inspo… but without the credit that’s due. With the rise of influencer culture and celebrity impact, the relationship between trend forecasting and designers has become blurry. Pre-internet, trend forecasters were a driving force in how designers would predict next season’s trends in analysing social behaviour and creating trend reports. Now, with big names such as the Kardashian family influencing the fashion industry, designers are looking at who is making the biggest waves online to find inspiration.

So you don’t need major credentials to influence the fashion industry; you just need a cellphone, the internet and a little app called Instagram.

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South African Menswear Week is Africa’s only stand-alone platform dedicated to the development and promotion of menswear within the African continent. Taking place twice a year in Cape Town, South Africa, SAMW aims to provide a world-class platform for menswear designers and brands to showcase their latest collections. A series of shows over three days, only the best of menswear is invited to be on the schedule each season.

The goal is to be the leading platform in terms of innovation, trends, production and most importantly, the promotion of our designers. It’s about building credibility for the platform that will enable designers to grow their businesses.

“We always want to raise the bar and explore new spaces with each season and this time it’s no different. We chose the location not only due to it’s incredible space, but to showcase all corners of the Mother City and not take away from the view of the amazing designs on the runway.” – says Simon Deiner, co-founder of SAMW.

This season will see many designers return to release their spring/summer collections as well as a few new labels. These include ALC Man, By El Apparel, Ellen Madie, Good Good Good, Iconic Black, Imprint, Jason Porshe, JReason, Lutuleigh, Masa Mara, One I Am, Sol Sol, Thobey Cooper, Throwaway Twenty, Tokyo James and XM Creations, to name just a few.

These designer collections will be a true kick-start to warmer days, so diarise the below event details:

Date: Saturday, 6 July 2019.
Venue: The Halyard, 4 Christiaan Barnard Street, Cape Town City Centre.
Tickets: to be announced in the week leading up to the event (1 July).

Come out to support your favourite designer, but also to be a part of the greater push for buying local. If our president could rock a locally made suit at the recent SONA, so can you!

For more info on SAMW visit their website: www.menswearweek.co.za

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