Immerse yourself in sublime scenery, pull over for marvellous milkshakes and embrace the wide-open spaces of the quintessential Karoo with our guide to the legendary Route 62
The Cape Route 62 links Cape Town To Port Elizabeth in a variety of ways, but its classic core lies between Montagu and Oudtshoorn – look at the markers, and you’ll see that this road is numbered 62. Passing through farming towns such as Calitzdorp, Ladismith and the fruit- growing and wine-producing towns of Barrydale, Montagu and Robertson, there are pedestals aplenty. The iconic old highway is also quite varied and encompasses soaring mountain paths along dramatic gravel roads through the Little Karoo. Here’s how to wend your way to new wonders, whatever your ride, in just three days.
DAY 1: WINE AND WANDERS
Proclaimed the start to Route 62, Montagu is an elegant introduction to the splendours of Little Karoo. Tucked between the Cape’s famed
wine region and semi-desert land- scapes, the Cogmanskloof Pass (which is cut through a mountain when you approach from the towns of Robertson and Ashton) marks the beginning of your adventure. You’ll find excellent coffee as well as panoramic views on arrival at BluVines Bistro (find them on Facebook). Housed in a refurbished old farmhouse, many of the staff are alumni from the Rural Arts Development Foundation, a Montagu-based non-profit organisation with a focus on driving community arts.
Once jacked up on java, head into the Montagu Museum for a guided history tour by a passionate local. Then tackle the streets by bicycle come evening (after a pizza at Piccolo Tesoro of course – the authentic, family-owned pizza place is within walking distance of the tourism information office) for a fascinating ghost tour.
FOODIE FAVOURITE
The Robertson Wine Valley is on par with Stellenbosch for its superior quality terroir. Pop into the Cape Dry Factory Store in Montagu for padkos snacks at a bargain, and cost-price wines from the surrounding farms, such as Springfield, Excelsior and De Wetshof. capedriedfruit.com
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Gert Lubbe, the late owner of the Montagu Country Hotel, was the celebrated driving force behind the R62 route almost 20 years ago. Got
a penchant for nostalgia? Start this iconic route at his quirky stay. It’s a real step back in time. Bedrooms and leisure areas are all decorated in either Art Deco or Victorian style – right down to the door handles and cutlery.
DAY 2: MILKSHAKES AND MOTORBIKES
Venturing into the Little Karoo often feels like travelling back in time. Nowhere is this more beautifully effected than at Diesel and Crème –your next stop in Barrydale. It might appear to be just an old fuel station at first glance, but inside the vintage diner is an enchanting time capsule. The family-owned diner is filled with nostalgia-inducing paraphernalia such as video game machines, arcade games, Lumo Neon signs and old Koffiehuis signage. Plus, the array of vehicle antiquities and motor-oil memorabilia all honour the golden age of the back road – a perfect pitstop.
Order a gourmet milkshake and then walk it off by exploring the surrounding stores that line the street. Ronnies Sex Shop, 20 kilometres away, is next. Don’t worry, it’s not what you think. This famous pub (it’s been going strong for 40 years) is favoured more for the photo ops than for any gourmet goodness. Still, it’s very popular with motorcyclists. Admire the rides that line the parking lot or venture inside to sneak a peek at all the underwear that adorns the ceiling, then carry on to Calitzdorp. Be sure to take your sweet time, though – there are plenty of pretty viewpoints for you to stop and enjoy along the way.
FOODIE FAVOURITE
Decide on your designated driver and pull into port paradise. Try Boplaas for award-winning products paired with chocolate or biltong.
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A farm stay sanctuary, Lenies Hof lies just beyond the tarred roads of R62. Set on a small organic farm (with a vineyard, olive and apricot orchards) the chic self-catering studio apartments are small but delightful with an outdoor firepit. Take a seat below the swell of stars and enjoy.
DAY 3: DO THE VIEWS
Ok, it’s a deviation from the regular R62 route, but the sweeping Swartberg Pass is worth it. Carry on the gravel road past Lenies Hof farm in the direction of the Calitzdorp dam, towards Groenfontein and Kruisrivier. This is the scenic route to the pass and Prince Albert beyond. The Swartberg Pass is a national monument and was Thomas Bain’s final, and arguably best, work of road building. It’s also one of the longest passes in the country at 23.8 km long, and can easily take over an hour to drive with all the spectacular stops. Once in Prince Albert, a feast of local produce awaits. Pop into Prince Albert Olives for their prize extra virgin oils.
Be sure to book a tasting in advance to enjoy the fruit of father-and-son farmers, Fred and Hein Badenhorst (find them on Facebook). Or find award-winning cheese at Gay’s Guernsey Dairy. Did you know this is the original farm that founded Prince Albert? It was first named ‘De Queekvallei’ in 1762. Then find a seat at the Green Prince Gin Bar, on the stoep at the Swartberg Hotel and toast an epic journey. swartberghotel.co.za
FOODIE FAVOURITE
Stop for a true-Karoo farm breakfast at Kobus se Gat. There’s fire-grilled roosterkoek with all the fillings, proper moer koffie and the prettiest outdoor setting. The restaurant is also green and totally off the grid, relying on solar panels for electricity.
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Prince Albert is home to a host of quaint white-washed cottages. Dennehof consists of several of these buildings that once belonged to the original farmstead.
If you still haven’t had your fill, return to the R62 and Oudtshoorn via Meiringspoort. Pull off for a while and go for a swim below the waterfall – who knows, you might spot a mystical mermaid there – and enjoy the bounty that lies in South Africa’s ostrich capital. Don’t forget to catch the highlights that include a morning with meerkats and the beautiful Cango Caves. You won’t be disappointed.
Words by Melanie Van Zyl
