A showcase of emerging local fashion labels and designers to keep an eye on
South Africa’s fashion scene is ablaze with talent and a new generation of designers reshaping the industry. Among these are some who have been in the fashion game since the start of their working life, and others who have crossed over from different fields to follow their passion. From elegant couture to intricate craftsmanship, their collections reflect the diverse tapestry of South African culture.
Fikile Sokhulu
After graduating in 2018 from Durban University of Technology with a diploma in Fashion Design, Fikile Sokhulu founded her eponymous label (also known as FZS) and has made great fashion strides. Her first womenswear collection made her a New Talent Search finalist at SA Fashion Week in 2018, and again in 2021 where she showcased her eye-catching ‘Willow’ collection. Femininity is at the forefront of her work, influencing the silhouettes she creates. Appealing to women of all backgrounds – from young ones still finding themselves to those with established and evolving identities – Sokhulu’s philosophy is that women can be both strong and delicate. She also focuses on using natural and sustainable fabrics.
Keep up with Fikile
Instagram: @fikilesokhulu
St Reign
Samkeisiwe Mhlongo-Setshedi decided to focus on accessories – or “functional art”, as she puts it – establishing her range of sustainable, handmade leather handbags in 2017. St Reign has become known for its timeless yet imaginative pieces produced in small batches, using locally sourced leather and cutting techniques that minimise waste. She also uses weaving, patchwork and wet-leather moulding in her designs, and is branching out into ‘deadstock’ fabrics. St Reign appeals to individuals who value meticulously crafted, artisanal work, and who seek accessories that command attention without overpowering their ensemble. The brand’s name reflects the impact of spirituality, reminding Mhlongo of the reign of God in her work and to cherish her God-given talents.
Keep up with St Reign
Instagram: @st_reign
X: @st_reign
Boyde
A fashion graduate from Tshwane University of Technology, Samkelo Boyde Xaba launched his luxury menswear brand in 2017. Three years later, he won SA Fashion Week’s Scouting Menswear Competition. Inspired by the geometry of industrial architecture, modern interior design and the elegance of minimalism, BOYDE blends these influences with traces of African historical culture. His clothing is made using environmentally friendly processes and locally sourced textiles, reflecting his commitment not only to timeless style but sustainable fashion too. BOYDE’s creations embody pared-down minimalism of exceptional quality and comfort, striving to create pieces for daily wear that are made to last.
Keep up with Boyde
Brand
Instagram: @boyde__official
X: @Boyde__Official
Personal
Instagram: @samkeloboyde
X: @samkeloboyde
Suhu
Streetwear fans are taking note of these Joburg brothers and their unisex brand, SUHU Original, which bridges the gap between casual and high-end. When the nation went into Covid lockdown in 2020, twins Silo and Sethu Kondleka, who grew up in the Eastern Cape, launched their brand. Originally drawing inspiration from their jet-setting aspirations as they missed being able to explore the world, they design fashionable clothing that can be appreciated both locally and minimalist, clean-lined garments have a slightly formal/workwear vibe, and many a sets (tops and pants) that can go from a demanding to a fun night out. The range includes basic T-shirts in mostly neutral tones with African-inspired prints, signature shirts and cardigans.
Keep up with Suhu
Instagram: @suhu.original
X: @suhuoriginal
Munkus
Following the accolades as SA Fashion Week’s New Talent and Design Indaba’s Emerging Creative in 2022, Thando Ntuli is proving to be one to watch.
A time capsule of 80ss and 90s Soweto-inspired designs, her ready to wear brand Munkus (Her nickname) was founded in 2019. She had worked as a fashion buyer after graduating from Fedisa, but decided to take a leap of faith. With colourful and daring designs and whimsical, fun shapes, Thando aims to ‘connect’ the wardrobes of different generations of women. Her approach to clothing production is guided by sustainability, technical intricacy and quality above quantity. By doing this, her cleverly crafted clothing can have a longer lifespan and be passed down (plus it’s perfectly made for layering).
Keep up with Munkus
Instagram: @munkus_
TikTok: @munkusthebrand
Website: @munkus.co.za
Mantra Africa
Nongcebo Mchunu is an engineering technologist-turned-designer from KZN. Initially hesitant to pursue her love of fashion, fearing failure, she started with small steps in short courses, then studied advanced garment construction at Fezile Fashion Skills Academy. At the 2020 Durban Fashion Fair, she secured a spot as a mentee and produced her ‘Aluta Continua’ collection, inspired by liberation struggles throughout history. After this success, she was invited to exhibit at the Creative Africa Nexus Festival in 2021, creating a collection inspired by traditional Zulu culture. Since then, her label Mantra Africa has continued to use fashion as a storytelling medium for the experiences of black people.
Keep up with Mantra Africa
Instagram: @mantra_africa
How to become a fashion designer
- Develop your skills through formal education or self-study. Consider enrolling in fashion design courses.
- Keep up with trends and developments in the fashion industry, both locally and globally. Attend fashion shows, read fashion magazines and follow designers and influencers on social media.
- Build a portfolio of your designs and projects. Include sketches, photos and anything that shows your creativity, skills and talent.
- Connect with others in the industry, including fellow designers, stylists and journalists and influencers. Attend events, workshops and networking functions.
- Look for opportunities to gain hands-on experience. This could be internships, apprenticeships or freelance work with established designers or fashion labels.
- Research our market to understand SA consumer preferences, emerging trends and cultural influences. Tailor your designs to meet the needs and tastes of your target audience.
- Have an online presence through a professional website and social media profiles. Showcase your work, share behind-the-scenes glimpses and engage with your audience to build a following.
- Be persistent keep pushing forward, learn from setbacks, cultivate resilience and stay true to your vision as a designer.
Words by: Sahrah Enous
Photo: Pexels, Supplied
