Flat, bone-dry and dotted with rickety old wind pumps, Sutherland is a Karoo dorpie that comes to life after dark.

It took humankind millions of years to invent the electric lightbulb so we could light up our nights. Yet now we will travel for days searching for dark skies uncontaminated by light pollution. Some places, in fact, have developed quite a reputation for the intensity of their darkness.

Driving from Matjiesfontein through the Roggeveld Karoo, the moment you go over the little hill at Rooikloof farm, you see it: Sutherland, a minuscule dorpie with a great big telescope and very little obscuring the brilliance of the stars.

This is, in fact, one of the darkest inhabited regions in the world and one of South Africa’s most seismographically stable places. It’s also cloud-free for 80% of the year, and because it’s 1 760 metres above sea level, there’s less atmosphere between your eyeballs and all those celestial objects up in the sky.  

See the big picture

This makes Sutherland brilliant for stargazing and the ideal location for SALT, the Southern Africa Large Telescope. Completed in 2005, SALT sits on a high ridge some 15km from town. It has an 11-metre diameter gently curving mirror comprising 91 separate pieces and is so powerful it’s capable of making a candle flickering on the moon visible to us here on Earth.

Astrophysicists from around the world visit to make use of this telescope. And visitors to Sutherland can tour SALT, too, although it’s probably less entertaining than you’d imagine. However, if you have a deep interest in telescope technology or want to see the sheer scale of it, then the site will pique your interest.

More enticing is the Sutherland Planetarium in the centre of town (opposite the hotel), which looks a bit like a pair of conjoined igloos. It’s South Africa’s only privately owned digital planetarium, with 3D star shows projected onto the domed ceiling during the day, and after-dark exploration of the stars and planets using two state-of-the-art Celestron telescopes in the outdoor enclosure.

Perhaps Sutherland’s hardest working amateur astronomer is Jurg Wagener, a tourism entrepreneur who hosts stargazing sessions at Sterland, his campground just outside town.

“For visitors,” says Jurg, “I do a show every night, which includes a short  lecture, a very lovely fossil exhibition and then you get to look, physically, through the telescope.” His eight telescopes are kept in plastic huts (modified builder’s loos, really), with air-circulation whirlies on top designed to keep them cool. He calls his set-up ‘primitive’ but in the darkness they seem almost futuristic.  

His eight telescopes are kept in plastic huts… He calls his set-up ‘primitive’ but in the darkness they seem almost futuristic  

Perfect when cold

Despite Sutherland’s popularity with visitors keen to see stars, many people arrive in search of snow – and to feel just how exquisitely cold it can get. Locals say the coldest recorded temperature was –16.4˚C.

Snow has been recorded in every month of the year; one of the heaviest snowfalls occurred in mid-summer, on 6 December 1970. The snow was a metre deep in town, and a week later farmers were still pulling live sheep out from under it! During heavy snow, it’s possible for people to get stuck in town for days.

To witness first-hand the resilience of the farmers who battle the elements here, book a few nights at Blesfontein, an authentic working farm 28km southwest of Sutherland. Guests are accommodated in converted stables and sheds – they may look rustic on the outside, but are  neat and clean inside. There’s also a private observatory here and a free star show for guests; Nicol van der Merwe, the farmer, is absolutely besotted with the night sky. But be prepared to hang around longer than expected if the weather doesn’t play nice – Nicol says that if it does snow on Blesfontein, you are stuck.

“Guests can run out of food, so I have a deep-freeze full of meat and bread. I’ve also geared the farm for emergencies; we have generators and gas fridges and stoves in case we become cut off.”  

The nitty-gritty  

• Sutherland is about 346km from Cape Town (four hours’ drive); historic Matjiesfontein (110km before, on the N1) is a delightfully quirky place to pause – and spend the night – on the way. 
• For stargazing, avoid nights with a full moon, including several days before or after. Also check a weather app for indications of cloudy conditions. 
• If you’re a hardcore astronomy or big-tech enthusiast, book a tour of SALT online at tours.saao.ac.za. Stargazing by telescope at night is offered at the SALT Visitors Centre. 
• You can’t miss the domes of Sutherland Planetarium in the middle of town. Simply walk in and book a viewing slot. 
• Contact Jurg Wagener directly (sutherlandinfo.co.za) if you want to book a stargazing session at Sterland or to rent a cottage or campsite. 

Wild and free

Also near Sutherland is Rogge Cloof, a private nature reserve and guest farm dating back to 1756. Here, on a vast expanse of scraggly land sheltering zebras and springboks and a few cheetahs that guests can see on game drives, it’s possible to spend the night learning about the stars without the crowds, with less fuss and even less light and noise pollution than in town. You can stay in one of the sleek minimalist chalets or pick from a handful of family-sized cottages converted from old farm buildings.

What to do in daylight hours? If you enjoy the Karoo’s wide-open spaces but are staying in town, Middelfontein farm (owned by Jurg and his wife Rita) is perfect for hiking. Trails range between three and 15km; there’s no need to book, but do first register at Kambro Kind Guest House in town, where you can pick up a trail guide and pay a small donation.

Rita designed a plant route and created a book identifying over 100 plant species in the area, many of which are only in bloom from August to October. The flowers pop up almost overnight if there’s a mere splash of rain, and carpets of colourful wildflowers can be seen in spring.

If you’re interested in rare fl ora, ask about the Romulea eburnea, a relatively new flower species endemic to the area. Other rarities include the yellow-flowering Daubenya aurea and Moraea with its purple blooms. The slow-growing succulent called elephant’s foot can be found here too.

Among the spectacular mountain passes close to town is Ouberg, which leads down into the Tankwa Karoo National Park. Farmers once used it to take their animals into the Karoo for winter; the views from the top stretch as far as the Ceres mountains 200km away. Keep an eye out for raptors such as the Ludwig’s bustard, martial eagles and black-chested snake-eagles.

So, there’s more to Sutherland than the stars. It’s the perfect place to get out into nature, to enjoy Karoo hospitality – and to build a snowman.

Spend the night learning about the stars without the crowds, with less fuss and even less light and noise pollution    

Where to stay

In town, in a building dating from the 1860s, Skitterland Guest House has five suites and a separate self-catering cottage, Hibernia, for more privacy. Suites are named after constellations and there’s a long verandah from which to gaze at the Milky Way.
From R580 per person sharing B&B.
skitterland.co.za  

Accommodations at Rogge Cloof are 12km from the main entrance at the solar-powered Eco-Village, where there’s a small observatory with stargazing sessions conducted by passionate guides. Head here if you want a stay immersed in nature, with lots to do and the option to self-cater or eat at the excellent restaurant. They also make their own wine, available for tastings.
Self-catering from R2 300 per couple or R4 600 for a family cottage. Semi-catered from R1 850 per person sharing (breakfast & dinner).
roggecloof.com

The lodgings at Blesfontein are converted farm buildings that sleep two to five people. Each unit is unique and comfortable, and has a fi replace. It’s self-catering but hearty farm breakfasts and traditional three-course dinners can be enjoyed in the farm’s restaurant or delivered to your cottage.
From R900 per couple.
blesfontein.co.za

Words by: Ketith Bain
Photography: Shutterstock