Head for the Breedekloof Valley and visit these padstals on the way
When we were little, road trips were legion. We spent many a day meandering across the country, parents up front and kids in the back, seats down and the entire station wagon our playground (that would not fly these days, of course). We rolled into country towns and tiny hamlets, always stopping at the petrol station, where we would hop from foot to foot on the boiling tar, pouring buckets of water over our heads.And an attendant would scrub the bugs off the windscreen, grille and headlights. So many bugs.I thought of this as I pootled up the R43, car sparkling white in the sunshine. Where were the insects? Not a single one met its end on our window.
The ride was sweet though, a Toyota Corolla Cross XS hybrid, the engine whisper-quiet as we zoomed down the freeway. The passengers were impressed – plenty of legroom and excellent air con; a pleasant 20 degrees inside, while the temperature outside pushed just south of 40. Loads of boot space too. Really, it drove comfortably, on the highway where it whizzed past lumbering trucks with ease; and on the byway where it held its own on the twisting mountain roads.
Route 43 is less travelled than the famed funky Route 62 between Cape Town and Gqeberha, but it is no less rewarding. It runs from Gansbaai to Ceres, from the Indian Ocean to the fruit trees. They both claim Worcester as a stop.It was to the fruit trees we were heading, leaving the N1 a few hundred metres shy of the Worcester offramp.
You’re still in the Cape Winelands, as a sign proclaiming the Breedekloof Wine Route reminds you. This is Chenin country, another sign tells you. And indeed there are plenty of wine estates to stop at and while away the time. Blueberry farms and scrub break up the vines, the sky the deepest blue. It is quiet and still, other cars few and far between. This is what road-trip dreams are made of.
Padstal stop number one
A bit further up the road, Rietdakkie Padstal is a large angular building, a modern take on a local farm shed. But right on the roadside, almost in the way of passing traffic, is the old rietdakkie building for a taste of times past. The large, fresh store sells everything every decent padstal should, so grab a basket and shop. There is frozen and fresh meat, braai pies (which look a lot like roosterkoek to me), preserves, jams, pickles, many a hot sauce, fresh produce from the valley, dried fruit, and plenty of sweet baked treats on offer. Out back, there is a huge lawn and play area for the children to burn off some energy. The more sedate can sit for a bite to eat. On the menu are roosterkoek (no self-respecting padstal is without these staples), quiches, pies and cakes. Like what you see? You can also stay the night at Rietdakkie’s De Hoop Mountain View Cottages.
Padstal stop number two
Okay, you have to cheat a bit, and slip off on the Wolseley Road, but not for long before you turn into Die Boord, settled between the Witzenberg mountains. The play area is a treat – green lawns, climbing frames and a tractor ride for children. There is a little dam with ducks, and tables under the trees (there’s an inside seating space too, if it is raining). Very popular among the locals, they come for the wood-fired pizzas. Not a bad choice at all. The shop is stocked with local fresh produce, jams, biscuits, spices (get your Funky Ouma goodies) and preserves, and a deli section offering meat, cheese and charcuterie. Added to the offerings, are some decor items, scarves and very reasonably priced leather bags. There is also plenty of parking space, always welcome. And there are two self-catering cottages on the banks of the dam for a longer stay.
Padstal stop number three
We sailed past the delightful Creative Hub, a blizzard of colour and fun. It sells art, food at the deli, gifts, and home-made ice cream! And we came to a standstill at the foot of Mostertshoek mountain, at Hillbilly Farm. It’s a working farm, with an Nguni herd and chillis. Accordingly, the farm stall sells a dizzying array of chilli sauces. ‘Kakhot’ hits the top of the Scoville scale and the bottle comes packaged in a little wooden outhouse. It’s very rustic, but peaceful, and the menu offers simple, tasty meals (even a kudu and beetroot burger). Have a milkshake while you keep your eyes peeled for Verreaux’s eagles, jackal buzzards and Cape eagle-owls. There are also dassies, mongooses and genets. And take home a metal windmill; they come in all sizes and bright colours. If you’re outdoorsy, the accommodation will make you happy. It is rustic and self-catering, but you get to be part of a working farm, climb the mountain and just chill.
Words by Lorraine Kearney
