Begin with brow mapping  

One of the biggest challenges when shaping your brows is knowing exactly where they should begin, where the arch should lift, and where they should taper off. This can easily be done using a technique called brow mapping. It’s about using a brow pencil (or even the end of a make-up brush) to pinpoint three key areas along your brow line. By following these natural reference points, you’ll be able to shape brows that are balanced, defined and tailored to your unique facial features. The result? Brows that look polished, yet still feel like you.  

Here’s a step-by-step guide:  

Step 1: Find your starting point  

To determine where your eyebrow should start, place the pencil (or make-up brush) on the side of your nose and hold it at an angle towards the inner corner of your eye. The pencil should not be over the eye area. Where the pencil edge hits the brow line — this is the beginning of your eyebrow and should be your starting point.  

Step 2: Identify your arch 

Next, find your arch by angling the pencil from the side of your nose through the centre of your eye. Where it intersects with your brow is where the arch should naturally peak.  

Step 3: Locate your tail  

Finally, tilt the pencil from the outer edge of your nose to the outer corner of your eye. Where it meets the brow line is where your brow should end. Be careful not to extend the tail too far, as it can visually pull the eyes downwards.  

Consider your face shape  

Just as brow mapping gives you a personalised guide to where your brows should begin and end, your face shape can help refine how they should curve, arch or taper. Matching your brow shape to your facial structure can subtly enhance your features, bring balance, and create a more harmonious overall look.  

Round face  

For rounder face shapes, the goal is to add a sense of length and lift. A higher, defined arch helps elongate the face and brings a touch of structure. Use a brow pencil to slightly deepen the peak of your arch and brush brow hairs upward to open up the eye area. A dab of highlighter under the arch will accentuate the lift.  

Long face 

 If you have a longer face shape, aim for balance by creating the illusion of width. A straight, horizontal brow with a soft, low arch works best. This shape helps break up the length and draws the eye outward rather than downward. When filling in, gradually lighten the colour toward the tail for a soft, natural finish.  

Square face 

Defined by a strong jawline as well as a broad forehead, square faces suit soft, rounded brows. Focus on filling in the middle and blend with a spoolie to balance bold, angular features.  

Oval face  

Oval faces are naturally balanced, so avoid overworking the brows. A soft angle with a moderate arch enhances symmetry. Lightly fill sparse areas, following your natural shape for subtle definition.  

Heart face  

For heart-shaped faces, the aim is to balance a wider forehead with a softer, lower face. Opt for gently curved brows with a low arch and fuller body to soften the forehead and complement a narrower chin. Avoid sharp tails and maintain a natural shape for the most flattering finish.  

Diamond face 

Diamond-shaped faces benefit from brows that soften wide cheekbones and open up the upper face. A curved brow with a softly angled arch helps create the illusion of a broader forehead and a more balanced silhouette. Slightly thicker brows work well to anchor strong bone structure.  

How to fill in your brows at home  

The next step is adding soft definition and fullness. Filling in your brows doesn’t have to be complicated or time-consuming; it’s simply about enhancing what’s already there, with subtle tweaks that bring your features into focus. Here’s how:  

Begin by brushing through your brows.  

Using a clean spoolie or brow brush, sweep the hairs upward and outward, following the natural direction of growth. This instantly lifts the shape and helps reveal any sparse patches, uneven areas or stray hairs that may need attention. 

-Trim (if needed).  

Use a small pair of brow scissors to snip any long or unruly hairs that extend beyond your natural brow line. Be careful not to trim too much or create an uneven shape.  

– Tidy up any strays.  

Check for any stray hairs (hairs that fall outside of your natural brow shape) and pluck them using tweezers. Be sure to pluck in the direction of hair growth and avoid over-plucking. 

– Fill them in. 

 Using a brow pencil, powder or pomade in a shade that closely matches your natural brow colour, fill in any sparse areas of your brows. Apply with light, feathered strokes, following the direction of your natural hair growth to mimic real brow texture.  

– Blend.

Brush through your brows again with your spoolie to soften any lines and blend the colour evenly. This step makes all the difference as it lifts excess product, evens out any patchiness and leaves you with a natural, well-groomed finish.  

-Set. 

Apply a clear brow gel to set your brows in place and keep them looking neat throughout the day